Painting Eaves And Gutters
Many houses today have the eaves enclosed, finished flush at right angles to the wall line, whilst others have lining boards nailed either to the top or the underside of the roof bearers.
This latter type of finish presents a much bigger job when painting eaves is considered.
From the point of view of weathering, the eaves are rather problem sections. Their peculiar problem lies in the fact that although protected from the general action of sun, rain, etc, they are subject to the most excessive heat transmitted from the top side of the roof surface.
This heat action creates a wide range of temperature changes, and under these particular circumstances it is unwise to use high-gloss finishing paints. Blistering very often occurs through this cause.
There are also other paint faults which may develop if unsuitable paint combinations are use.
Because dirt and dust will collect on these surfaces it is a wise precaution to wash down the eaves prior to painting eaves of the house. Cleaning solution water followed by a light hose should be effective.
On occasion, the result of this cleaning may obviate the necessity for painting and a good deal of time will be saved. Generally speaking, providing the old paint is in good order, it is merely a matter of freshening up the surface, not of preserving it.
Suitable Paint Mixture for Painting Eaves of House
Actually a good mixture can be made from two parts finishing paint to one part undercoat. This will give a mixture which will allow good covering and elasticity without any high gloss or stickiness on heating. If the old paint is hard, dry and firmly adhering, most paints would prove satisfactory, but care must be taken to cut down the old paint coating to provide a key for the new material.
The use of the two to one finishing under-oat mixture will ensure all the necessary qualities and at the same time provide a natural, easy ground for repainting.
It is a tedious job to rub down the under sections of eaves, etc, as is really necessary when high gloss paints have been used previously. An undercoat will be necessary over old high gloss paint. Much blistering occurs through applying a finishing coat over the hard, smooth surface of the old paint. On some jobs the old woodwork under the eaves is either poorly dressed or not dressed at all, and a very rough, uneven surface results. The dirt and dust finds a ready resting place and creates a dirty, dingy appearance. It may not be considered practical to completely smooth off these sections, but a good scrape over with a shagie hook will certainly cut back the worst parts. Due to the peculiar features of weathering, as previously mentioned, paint faults are fairly common on paintwork under the eaves, and for this reason methods of removal should be considered. Burning off is probably one of the most effective methods of removing the old paint from Eaves, but on account of the awkward position of the work some difficulty may be experienced. The fire risk should also be considered. A close inspection of the work should be made both inside and outside the roof to ensure there is no loose, inflammable substance lying around.
Birds’ nests and old straw, etc, are common troubles when painting eaves and should be removed. The flame from the blowlamp may be drawn up under the eaves by the natural draught, and any dry material may smolder for some time before it is noticed. Where the amount of blistering or crocodiling is not sufficient to warrant burning off the old material, the affected parts should be thoroughly scraped and scoured down to eliminate the offending sections. Any thick edges which remain should be thoroughly sanded down.
Scaffolding for Painting Eaves of House
Usually trestles and plank provide the soundest scaffolding for these parts of the home. It will leave the worker with both hands free to carry out the job, yet within comfortable reach of the working surfaces. However, where the wall line is particularly high the eaves may be out of reach for trestle working and an extension ladder may be necessary. If two ladders are available, ladder brackets may be used and a plank run between the two. This is ideal, but requires the aquisition of scaffolding and equipment beyond that available to the average householder. If only one ladder is used and set firmly at the foot, reasonable working conditions will result. The use of the paint hook is a “must” for ladder work, safely securing the pots or buckets, and leaving the individual free to carry out the painting eaves job. It must be pointed out that maximum stability is important, and the careful placing of ladders, trestles, or steps is a vital section of the work if accidents are to be avoided. Working overhead means a good Ideal of dirt and paint spots dropping on the individual, and for this reason it is a good plan to have an old hat on when painting eaves of house.
It will protect both the face and the eyes from dirt or paint. It is necessary to brush all paint into the crevices and corners of the eaves in order to get a uniform coating. Time spent on puttying up will be well worth while.